The Vibrant yet Challenging Life of Rio’s Carnival Vendors
Rio de Janeiro’s Carnival is a whirlwind of color, music, and joy, but behind the glitter and celebration, thousands of street vendors like Talita Ferreira Sanches work tirelessly to keep the parties alive. At just 22 years old, Talita has spent four years perfecting her trade, selling drinks to revelers in the bustling streets of Rio. This year, she braved the winding cobblestone streets of Santa Teresa, carrying a heavy cart loaded with beer and water. Despite the physical strain and long hours, Talita sees Carnival as a time of opportunity. She earns around 1,500 reais ($260) a day during the festivities—equivalent to the country’s monthly minimum wage—money she and her family rely on to improve their life. “Every year, we have an objective,” she said, explaining how last year’s earnings bought a fridge and TV, and this year’s goal is to purchase a wardrobe and stove. For Talita and many like her, Carnival is not just a celebration but an economic lifeline.
The Role of Vendors in Rio’s Carnival Economy
Street vendors, known in Portuguese as ambulantes or camelôs, are as much a part of Rio’s Carnival as the musicians, dancers, and elaborate costumes. They provide the essential fuel for the parties—cold drinks, snacks, and other necessities—that keep the revelers going throughout the day and night. These vendors scour Instagram for party locations, coordinate through WhatsApp groups, and race to secure prime spots in the throngs of people. Their work is grueling, involving long hours, heavy loads, and the constant scramble to find the best spots. Yet, for many, it’s worth it. The income they earn during Carnival can pay off debts, buy gifts for their children, and set them up financially for the rest of the year. However, as the number of vendors has grown, so too have the challenges they face.
The Ballooning Vendor Population and Its Consequences
In recent years, the number of street vendors at Carnival has surged, driven by the growing number of street parties. This year, Rio has nearly 500 registered parties, and hundreds more unofficial ones—a significant increase compared to pre-pandemic numbers. The demand for cold drinks and water has skyrocketed, creating an opportunity for vendors to cash in. However, this has also led to overcrowding and competition. Rio’s City Hall held a lottery for 15,000 authorized vendor spots this year, 5,000 more than last year, but many vendors operate without permits, leaving them vulnerable to harassment and confiscation of their merchandise. The United Street Vendors’ Movement (MUCA) has highlighted the risks, including violence from Rio’s municipal guard. The influx of vendors has also strained relationships with party organizers and revelers, who accuse them of blocking streets and disrupting processions.
Tensions Between Vendors and Party Organizers
The growing number of vendors has created friction with Carnival organizers, who say the crowds of hawkers and their carts are hindering the flow of processions. Pericles Monteiro, director of the “Heaven on Earth” party, recounted how two years ago, his group was suffocated by vendors who set up shop in the middle of their parade route. The procession arrived late, and when they finally reached their destination, vendors had already taken over the space with barbecues and vans, leaving little room for performers and revelers. Monteiro emphasized that while he supports street vendors and recognizes their importance, the sheer number of them has become a problem. “We are aware of that,” he said, “but the way it has been done, the intensity—it really has been a serious problem hindering the party’s development.”
Vendors Fight for Respect and Better Working Conditions
In response to these challenges, vendors have been working to improve their image and organizational practices. This year, unions like SindInformal launched campaigns to promote respect and proper organization during Carnival. They encouraged vendors to set up on the edges of parties rather than in the middle of the chaos. MUCA also published a manifesto calling for “less mess, more harmony,” urging authorities and the public to recognize the vital role vendors play in Rio’s festive culture. Researchers like Flávia Magalhães of the Paulista University in São Paulo argue that vendors are essential to the city’s tourism and cultural identity. Yet, despite their contributions, vendors face dire working conditions, including limited access to toilets, long hours without food, and the daily commute from the periphery of Rio to its bustling center.
A Glimmer of Hope for Rio’s Street Vendors
Despite these struggles, there are signs of progress. For vendors like Maria de Lourdes do Carmo, who has spent three decades selling caipirinhas in Santa Teresa, being based in the city center during Carnival is a game-changer. While she hasn’t always had an easy time—even running for city council to advocate for vendors’ rights but losing—efforts are being made to address their needs. This year, Rio’s City Hall announced it would provide daycare services for vendors’ children during Carnival, offering food, cultural activities, and games. For Débora Silva Pereira, a 42-year-old vendor, the long, exhausting days are worth it—both for the income and the chance to connect with people. “The money makes it worth it, but the experiences even more so,” she said. While the path ahead is still fraught with challenges, these small victories offer a glimmer of hope for Rio’s street vendors.
